Epicuren Skin Care: Collagen Cure or Quackery?
Submitted by Beauty Brains Blog
MacKenzie’s curious about Epicuren: Do Epicuren products really improve skin? They claim that the high amount of collagen (it is one of the first ingredients) is what sets it apart from other products. I would like an opinion from someone with a chemistry background.
The Left Brain responds: 
I think Epicuren is another high priced product line making fanciful claims that stretch the bounds of scientific truth.
Epicurean inquiry
Here’s what I found on the Epicuren website about collagen:
“Most high-quality skin care systems do contain collagen and elastin. However, there is a great deal of difference between the Epicuren System and other skin care products. Most other skin care products that have collagen and elastin contain a very small amount of the proteins and do not create a way for collagen and elastin to enter the skin.”
Classes of collagen
It’s true that collagen and elastin are important components of healthy skin because they support the skin from beneath. There are actually 12 different types of collagen in the body (from Smartskincare.com):
Type I:
The most abundant collagen in the body. Found in tendons, bones, skin and other tissues. Particularly abundant in the scar tissue.
Types II, IX, X, XI:
Found in cartilage
Type III:
Common in fast growing tissue, particularly at the early stages (Phase 1) of wound repair. Much of it is replaced later by the type stronger and tougher type I collagen.
Type IV:
Basal lamina (filtration membrane of capillaries)
Type V, VI:
Generally found alongside type I
Type VII:
Found in linings of GI tract, urinary tract, etc.
Type VIII:
In the lining of blood vessels
Type XII:
Found alongside and interacts with types I and III
Unfortunately, applying collagen to the surface of skin only has a minor moisturization effect at best. You can’t “restore” functional collagen to deep layers of skin by applying a cream to the surface. You can, have replacement collagen injections performed by a dermatologist but that’s a completely different technology. Those injections deliver collagen protein deep inside the skin where it can be absorbed and “puff” up skin.
The Beauty Brains bottom line
Applying collagen on top of the skin has no real impact on the deeper layers. The only way to truly restore your skin’s collagen is to have it injected by a dermatologist. Topical creams can, however, can provide limited stimulation collagen production or slow it’s degradation.
Injected collagens tend not to last for a very long time… typically between 3 to 6 months, though the latest one Evolence (derived from pig tendons) claims to be effective for up to 1 year. One of the most effective ways of stimulating collagen production is to get a trained doctor to inject some substances under your skin to stimulate your own collagen production. Examples of these substances are poly-L-lactic acid (Sculptra), calcium hydroxyapatite (Radiesse), and in the days gone by, silicone.